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  Issue No 20 Official Organ of LaborNet 02 July 1999  

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Trades Hall

Chris Christodoulou's Images of East Timor


When I stepped off the plane at Dili Airport nothing could have prepared me for what would unfold over the next few days. The emotion, the poverty, the injustice, the struggle, the expectation of a country and a people on the brink of change.

 
 

Caught in the Crossfire

This was an experience I'll never forget, and one which I am determined to share until such time as the East Timorese people can finally say they have determined their own future. The following narrative gives the highs and lows of what was an exhausting and emotional seven days.

At Dili Airport East Timorese bystanders greeted us with courtesy and smiles. They thought we were part of the UNAMET contingent who were arriving on a daily basis. For the record they weren't the only ones who thought we were part of the United Nations mission. The police, who quickly demanded our passports on arrival, made the same mistake. The records will mistakenly show forever that Chris Christodoulou was a UN official in East Timor well at least that's what they wrote down on the passenger check list.

As quickly as we were out of customs we were welcomed by Mr Mahudu. Alison Tate, our representative from APHEDA, said: "Feel very safe this is Fretlin's main man in Dili and one of Xanana's' chief advisers.'' This became very obvious when a range of both uniformed and plain clothed people hovered around our delegation when Mr Mahudu officially welcomed us to East Timor. Of course, I had nothing to worry about because I was now a UN official!

Mr Mahudu soon had us on the road. The poverty was immediate to the eye. Motor bikes, run down little blue taxis, back end loader trucks filled with people, and of course mini buses overflowing with commuters. Roadside shacks doubled for produce stalls, some with as little as a bunch of bananas and a couple of tomatoes to sell or barter.

Young kids played along the roadside soaking up the dust, the fumes, and the heat of the day. They smiled and waved to us as we drove by. As we would come to find later, this outpouring of happiness by the East Timorese children towards us foreigners was equally felt by many East Timorese people. They had endured 23 years of repression waiting for the UN and the international community to finally come to their aid. For most East Timorese, foreigners were a sign of help.

Our car pulled up outside two large iron gates, behind which stood a modest home by our standards, but one quite out of character with the tin sheds, huts and bungalows which formed a large part of East Timorese shelter. I say shelter because most accommodation that you might compare with our most modest houses are lived in by the military and the upper echelons of the Indonesian public service.

During the remaining hours left that afternoon we talked to Mr Mahudu and listened to his analysis of the political and social environment in East Timor.

In his view, the disarmament process in the lead up to the autonomy/independence ballot was crucial. The resistance guerillas would find it difficult to hand in their guns whilst militia groups aided and abetted by the military continued their savage violence and intimidation towards the East Timorese.

The discussion with Mr Mahudu was the beginning of endless meetings, trips and observations during the week. The evidence became very clear. The people of East Timor were responding well to the UN presence wherever it existed. However, out in the regional areas beyond Dili the militia continued their threats and violence. The militia message to the people was cold and calculated: if you vote for independence we'll kill you.

As we moved around the countryside seeing, witnessing and experiencing the trauma dished out by the militia I couldn't help but notice the legacy of Indonesian occupation.

Towns and villages devoid of any basic infrastructure. No sewerage systems; no clean water, run-down government schools and hospitals (where they existed); roads and footpaths resembling a war zone.

In the main commercial streets of Dili the stench from the rubbish filled drains made me feel sick. I even wondered whether the many pigs who frequented the roads and drains might also catch some godforsaken disease. They hadn't had the luxury of Hep A, Hep B, typhoid, tetanus and malaria inoculations as I had.

Behind this depressing environment stood a people very proud and resilient. On our first evening we were taken for a walk through the backstreets of Dili. We were on our way to talk to an East Timor students organisation. People would come out smiling from their modest shelters and every child to a number would say "Hello Mr" and chuckle as we responded with a wave. And there was no discrimination by these kids. Alison and Belinda got the same "Hello Mr" welcome as well.

Although the housing was poor and conditions primitive it was clear that the East Timorese people were at least enterprising in the way they used whatever they could find to create their homes tin, bits of timber, half baked bricks, rocks, etc. Their yards had little if any grass (probably due in part to the large number of goats) but they were very clean.

The students' group headquarters was very basic. As we walked through the front door a poster of Xanana Gusmao stood proudly over the one table in the office.

We talked for 2.5 hours with 20 or so students, interrupted only by the occasional truck that drove by.

The students impressed us. They had just finished a training session on reconciliation and leadership skills. They were astute, well organised and above all, appreciative of the support the trade unions in Australia were giving to the people of East Timor.

They told us of the most recent atrocities of the militia groups in the western regions of East Timor. In particular, how students were being forced by the military to join the militia. Those who didn't join were dealt with severely. They conveyed stories of women raped and men shot. The militia in the suburb of Hera (just outside Dili) had occupied and taken over the local college to demonstrate their strength amidst student unrest about their atrocities.

But these students were not going to be deterred by the militia or the military. They craved the chance of a free society where they could speak their minds without retribution. They exuded confidence, although some still bore the scars of violence which they had directly experienced.

The next day we met our trade union comrades from SBSI East Timor. They were equally committed about creating free and democratic trade union structures in their country. Workers in East Timor have very few rights and certainly no legal rights to organise into unions. The Indonesian government is quite happy about the $1.00 a day wage which many East Timorese and Indonesians earn. Notwithstanding all the obstacles and the current volatile environment, the SBSI organisers had recruited over 120 members in the last six months. Their membership records were articulate to say the least. Each member's name, place of employment, occupation and date of joining was verified by both the member's signature and a passport photo. This was SBSI's way of demonstrating to us that they had members. The calling of a general meeting for the occasion of our visit was too dangerous. We finished our meeting by signing an historic agreement between SBSI and APHEDA on the funding of trade union training courses for their delegates.

The next morning we set off to the regions to visit a number of APHEDA supported programs.

In a small town (unnamed) we dropped off urgent medical supplies to the local Catholic parish. During our inspection of their clinic two locals told us about the role of the militia in their area. It seemed the clinic and the church opposite doubled for night-time accommodation for the local villagers. They were frightened to stay in their own homes at night due to previous night-time raids by the militia.

Our next port of call was the city of Baukau, and home of East Timor's biggest military air base. In Baukau Indonesian flags flew high on every street corner. The pro-integration military had already erected anti-independence propaganda in defiance with the UNAMET decree that no campaigning begin until the voter registration process had been completed.

At Baukau we met with the Peace and Justice Commission which is funded by various sources to provide independent advice on human rights issues in East Timor. The Commission's resources were small but nonetheless they shared detailed information about the role of the militia. In particular, they told us of the forced removal from their homes of around 40,000 East Timorese who were now living in so called "refugee camps" run by the militia. These camps were one of the militia's direct ways of trying to influence the August 22 ballot by controlling who votes. The representatives also told us of the recovery of three bodies found recently after seven people went missing in retaliation for the death of two military officers.

In parts of the western regions people were being violently abused by the militia if they didn't sign statements saying they supported integration. And if all else failed the militia were making it very clear that they would kill people after the ballot if a pro-independence position was supported.

As we were leaving the Commission's office Alison was tapped on the shoulder by a student whom she had met on her last visit. He had "fright" written all over him. His eyes were full of water as he held back tears. He asked if Alison and ourselves would be staying in Baukau. When we said no, he told us that he was on the run from the militia who were after him for helping injured people to get to clinics for medical assistance.

The UN presence in Baukau had made a difference to the incidence of violence. But in those areas where the UN had not yet set up the violence and intimidation had continued.

At Baukau we also spoke to a group of workers at a construction site. In typical CFMEU style John walked on to the site and before we knew it we had a stop work meeting on our hands or at least that's one way of describing it. These workers were being paid a handsome $1.00 a day for their work. We asked them about their views on the ballot.

As long as the ballot was secret, and the UN were staying, the people would vote for independence some said. Others stood silently and listened. It was clear that many people were very frightened as there was no guarantee that the militia were going to give ground so easily in the future. We finished our trip in Baukau by inspecting the government-run hospital.

The administrator's office at the hospital was pristine. Not a spot of dust or dirt to be seen. Around this elaborate office were leather chairs. A chandelier hung from the ceiling and a cabinet sat in the corner with a display of best practice trophies. These trophies were apparently awarded to the hospital for a range of things, not the least being for maintenance and cleanliness. We asked the administrator questions about the running of the hospital but none of the questions could be adequately answered, especially issues regarding beds, staff numbers, equipment, length of hospital stays or statistics on injuries or sicknesses. However, we were given an inspection of the hospital.

We walked out of the pristine administrator's building into the general hospital wards which can only be described as atrocious in terms of their hygiene, staffing and the equipment that we saw. What we didn't see were many patients.

Just as we were about to leave, we came across a room with one patient. It was a young girl hooked up to a blood bag, lying on dirty sheets and scarred in several places from what would seem to be incorrect medical procedures. She lay very still. Belinda, who was the ANF representative on our delegation, was shocked for words. If this young girl wasn't ill before she went into this hospital it was hard to imagine how she could survive such atrocious conditions. All of us felt quite angry and emotional about what we had just seen. We knew that only five kilometres away the military base contained an up to date health facility for the soldiers. It was no wonder the East Timorese were prepared to queue for hours in church-run health clinics rather than go to the government run hospital.

This hospital was symptomatic of the repressive conditions that the East Timorese have had to endure under what has been effectively military rule.

In the days which ensued it became obvious to all of us on the delegation that the churches had played a major role in providing at least some basic services which the Government had failed to deliver. But even with the church's good intentions, the general lack of education, training, infrastructure and health services would guarantee that the people of East Timor will never achieve a fraction of the standards of living that we in the developed world have become accustomed to, whilst ever the status quo remains.

On the drive back from Baukau, the delegation talked about what we had seen and heard. We had divided opinions about the outcome of the ballot, from Keith, who was extremely pessimistic, to Belinda, who thought notwithstanding the role of the militia, that the people of East Timor would choose independence.

The next morning the delegation visited a Catholic Clinic (unnamed) in Dili where we delivered funds raised by Australian unions through APHEDA to representatives of the Mary McKillop Institute. Our visit to the clinic was a positive contrast to the disgusting conditions we had experienced at the hospital in Baukau. Whilst it lacked some basic equipment, eg. an X-ray machine, it was clean, well staffed, well run, and had a long queue of people waiting for treatment (a good sign).

As we did the rounds we spoke to a number of in-house patients who had been injured by the militia. One had bullet wounds, another machete wounds, including a severed thumb, and another who was recovering from fractured ribs and head injuries. Whilst each of their stories reiterated the violence associated with the militia groups, they seemed to be in good spirits and certainly in good hands. Just as we were about to leave the clinic to visit the UNAMET headquarters a young girl was brought into the ward. She was malnourished, heavily bandaged, and seemingly only semi-conscious. We were assured by staff that she was recovering but I couldn't hold back a tear or two as her mother sat helplessly by her side, I am sure wondering whether her daughter would survive her injuries.

I then wondered, how many other young children were missing out on this type of medical care. Our discussions with health workers in Dili gave us the clear impression that there was a high infant mortality rate in the country. What is clear is that there is little, if any, obstetric care available and certainly no baby or children's health centres.

UNAMET was our next port of call, where we met the deputy of the mission, David Wimhurst. We also spoke to a number of people from their political section. UNAMET certainly impressed me, if not the others on the delegation. Not only did they know of all the incidents of violence that we had gathered and reported to them but were well informed about much more. Their assessment was like ours, that no ballot could go ahead in East Timor until such time as the militia/military's intimidation and violence ceased to the extent necessary to ensure the people were making a conscientious vote.

We left UNAMET, clear in our own minds that more needed to be done, including more being done by the Australian government to make Indonesia comply with the United Nations agreement which they had signed.

That evening, the delegation also met with the coordinator of the Commission for Peace and Stability. The role of this Indonesian backed authority is to help disarm both pro and anti independence groups and to monitor the violence in East Timor in the lead up to the ballot. The meeting with the Commissioner was a watershed in many ways. He confirmed the militia intimidation and violence that had occurred, and did not try to deny any of the incidents that we had given him information about. He was quick to divert the discussion into why autonomy would be a good option for the East Timorese people. We pressed him about his thoughts concerning threats being made by the militia (in the western regions) to kill East Timorese people if they voted for independence. His response, whilst not unexpected, still shocked us. There is a big chance that there will be much hostility and instability if this occurs. This statement, coming from a senior person associated with the Indonesian government, confirmed our worst fears about the potential for military/militia reprisals after the ballot.

The final meeting we had was with another Catholic church organisation, which is providing education and skills training to orphaned children. As we walked to the school grounds a jive/rock melody echoed through the narrow laneway. It got louder and louder as we approached. We entered the school to find 30 or so kids, singing in absolute harmony, to an electric guitarist, a drummer and a toe-tapping Sister (conductor). It was like a scene out of "Sister Act". The children were happy, enthusiastic, and swaying from side to side to the beat of the music. When they saw us enter the school they waved, they smiled and their voices got even louder. And when they finished we all (including the children) broke out in loud applause. The Sister, who will remain nameless, greeted us with open arms. We sat and talked for about an hour about the role of the church generally, her school programmes, the APHEDA projects, and of course the forthcoming ballot. She made clear to us the instruction by her Bishop that the church would not advocate to the people which way they should vote. However, she would certainly be telling her parish not to be intimidated, that the United Nations would not desert them, and to vote according to their hearts and their conscience. I need say no more about this Sister, except that she was absolutely inspiring and absolutely committed to the people of East Timor.

That evening myself, John and Keith took our final walk through the streets of Dili. Although it was about 8.00 o'clock at night, we strangely felt some security in a country that was consumed with political violence. But of course, why wouldn't we feel secure? I was a UN official and at that point in time the dreaded militia were avoiding the United Nations or any foreigners that might observe their activities.

As we walked through the streets there were still kids out and about, Hello Mr, they chuckled as we walked past. I thought to myself, well, if we have achieved anything, it was at least to provide some hope in our small way to those that we had met. Every foreigner present reminded them of the international community's determination to provide the people of East Timor with a chance to determine their own future.

We flew out of Dili airport the next morning to Jakarta, in anticipation of our meeting with resistance leader, Xanana Gusmao. In an ironic twist of fate, our flight to Jakarta demonstrated in no uncertain terms the direct link between the militia and the military. Sitting adjacent to us on the plane was no other than Eurico Gutteres, the leader of one of East Timor's most notorious militia groups. He was surrounded by what could only be described as military intelligentsia. Young men, well spoken, with laptop computers, mobile phones and an array of papers at hand to read. Here we were, sitting next to a man accused of orchestrating some of the worst violence in East Timor and there was little (not withstanding my new UN credentials) that we could do about it.

I then picked up the Jakarta Post to read a number of articles, and there in one of those articles, written by Nirwan Idris was a quote that said "democracy by definition must be based on the head and not the heart". I looked across at Eurico and thought to myself, if the East Timorese people voted with their heads, then they would not vote for independence. Why would they, when their experience has been one of violence and intimidation by the militia (with the military firmly behind them) where threats were real and not bluff.

I was then reminded of the 74 year old man who had walked 130 km over four days from Baukau to Dili. He had walked through the mountain ranges to avoid the militia who took control of the roads by night. He said he had gone to Dili because he had waited for more than 23 years to see the United Nations flag in East Timor. If this was not an action of the heart I don't know what is. In my view, it would only be votes from the heart that would provide the people of East Timor the changes they so desperately desire.

On the Sunday night before our departure back to Australia the delegation was given the rare privilege of meeting with Xanana Gusmao. The man was remarkably calm and humble for a person who had spent the better part of his life locked up in Indonesian jails. We spoke for more than an hour and it was clear that he wanted nothing more than for his people to be able to vote freely, democratically and without violence or future reprisal. He reiterated the need for the Indonesian government to uphold their part of the United Nations agreement and stop the militia/military undermining the United Nations mission.

As we flew home to Australia I had concluded that one way or another East Timor was destined for change. For our part, we here in Australia have an obligation to ensure that such change reflects the will of the people and not the authority of violence.

See more photos http://www.labor.net.au/lcnsw/campaigns/timor/EastTimor.html

Chris Christodoulou is the Senior Industrial Officer of the Labor Council of NSW, and was one of a group of people who represented the ACTU in a fact finding mission to East Timor from 21 to 29 June, 1999. Others on the delegation were: Alison Tate, Project Officer, APHEDA; John Cummins, President, CFMEU (Construction) Victoria; Belinda Morieson, Secretary, ANF, Victoria; and Keith Peckham, President, AMWU, WA.


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In this issue
Features
*  Interview: They�re Not All Bastards
The Australian Industry Group�s Roger Boland is one employer representative who believes trade unions will continue to play an important role in the economy - and society - of the future.
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*  History: A Refreshing Advance
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*  International: MAI Back on the Agenda
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*  International: Courage Against the Odds
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*  Review: Without You I'm Nothing
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»  Trades Hall
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»  Piers Watch
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Letters to the editor
»  Thanks from the Hyde Park Hyatt
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»  The Chant of a Jilted project Co-ordinator
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»  Have the Times Really Changed?
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»  You've Got to be Kidding!
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